| Some evergreen can be severely pruned and others cannot. Easiest to control are Yews and Hemlocks. Both have abundant buds on both old and new wood that develop into twigs when cut. The leaves (needles) tolerate some shade so they grow well on the inside of the plant and can be made dense by pruning. Pruning just before new spring growth allows the pruning cuts to be covered with new growth. |
| The next easiest evergreens to control are Firs, Cedars, Spruce and Douglas Firs. These have easy-to-identify buds along the current season's growth. Size can be controlled by pruning back to a bud. For a formal shape they can be pruned or sheared when the current season's growth is soft. Their leaves are also somewhat shade tolerant so pruning has the potential for making a dense plant. |
| More care must be taken with Pines. When pruning pines one must be aware of their lack of buds along the stem and that buds are only at the tip of current season's growth. The time to prune Pines is in the spring. When growth is soft a candle can be cut or pinched before the needles are fully elongated, and buds will develop from needle fascicles below the cut. |
| The most difficult group are Junipers, Arborvitaes and Falsecypress (Chamaecyparis). In this group buds are present only where there are green leaves. A branch cut back to a non-leafy region will not form new foliage. The naked interior is the result of the fact that this group is intolerant of shade and therefore the interior leaves die. If they are cut, it should be done in the spring with care not to open the shell of green. |
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| Cindy McDonnell © 1999 |
Last updated October 4, 1999 |
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